Call for Disc Golf Course Designers

[Dan Weinert]

Now you're just being silly, Chief.

In that picture with the "astro turf", is that really what that it is? It looks more like one of those doormats with the brushy texture for wiping off muddy shoes.

Same thing...the randomness of the bristles is what does the trick.

Looking forward to actually getting to texture these bad boys!

Dan 

[Schoen-hopper]

Could you do 4.5" thick".  I'd say the longer you make them, the thicker they should be and the more important the levelling and tamping is before the pour.  Does 5' at the front of the trapezoids make players happier?

[Dan Weinert]

Could you do 4.5" thick".  I'd say the longer you make them, the thicker they should be and the more important the levelling and tamping is before the pour.  Does 5' at the front of the trapezoids make players happier?

The dimensions of 3.5" and 5.5" are based on using either 2" x 4"s or 2" x 6"s. I am a fan of using 2" x 6"s so I have a built in footing then control the depth in the middle...by doing this, we could get by with a 4.5" middle secion with a 5.5" perimeter footing. I am also getting rebar/mesh in the budget. All secondary pads per hole (where needed) will be of mominal size...4' x 8' or 5' x 10"ish

[Schoen-hopper]

When I did concrete work: for 4" sidewalk work, we used a wire mesh that would roll out and lay flat.  For bigger pours we'd used rebar all wire tied together.  The rebar has got to be more expensive- I'm not sure it would be needed.

[Tom]

The mesh I called out is only available in flat sheets. The roll out stuff is too difficult to maintain proper cover, and is lighter gage. #3 or #4 bar spaced at approx 9" each way would be even better than the mesh.

Well oiled 2 x 6 lumber forms are the way to go as well, just like Lefty said.

Additionally, the key to non-cracking pavement is a uniformly compacted sub-base.

[john theiss]

Tom, how important is it to have a gravel base?  Is it even necessary?  i have seen folks often times drop gravel down after the skid comes in.  then rebar or mesh  is added on top.

What are the pro cons of dropping in gravel?  And expense wise is it worth it?

[Tom]

Tom, how important is it to have a gravel base?  Is it even necessary?  i have seen folks often times drop gravel down after the skid comes in.  then rebar or mesh  is added on top.

What are the pro cons of dropping in gravel?  And expense wise is it worth it?

Crushed rock below the pad is not that important on tee box pads. The crushed rock can help alleviate frost heave. It's a little easier to fine grade than soil as well, which let's you control the pad thickness. 

The most important thing about what's below the pad (whether crushed rock or just soil) is that uniform compaction is done. A uniformly compacted base will help the pad from cracking when a truck or mower rolls over it.
 

[Kevin Montgomery]

I recall at WyCo they used sand as the base below the pad. It was smoothed and compacted before the poured. Is that something done along with crushed rock under it or is sand recommended at all?

[Schoen-hopper]

The crew I worked with always used sand.  No gravel usually needed.  Sand tamps down really well.  If it's dug out well, I don't think a whole lot would be needed.  Although it would add up fast with 18 big tees.

[Tom]

Sand is OK in a confined space form, as long as it's saturated. Crushed rock (AB-3) is best.
Honestly though, I'd just make sure there is no topsoil or organic material below the pad, and compact the soil well. Also, it's best not to pour concrete on a base that's real dry.

[Keizer]

Dan, are gonna be ready to manhandle that compactor again? Or shall we rent a steam roller?

[Dan Weinert]

One week left boys and girls...for the designs to be done. Be sure you have accounted for all Design Guidelines and be prepared to defend your answers and plan.

Can't wait to see the future of Disc Golf...'ville style!

Dan 

[Dan Weinert]

Dan, are gonna be ready to manhandle that compactor again? Or shall we rent a steam roller?

We got about 17 different soil types and configuations...

I should make the designers aware of that and for extra credit, they tell me what type of soil they have under their t-boxes and how do we deal with that type of soil. (sandy, dry, wet, clay, loam. ect...)

Maybe a chance for Course Concrete VP Tom to help us if needed. The right treatment and underlayment will make any soil issue go away.

To answer your question sir...I'll be VP Level/Final Placement guy again, you can be VP in charge of all Stake Issues and we will leave the Mr. Tamper Machine for the young-ins...that kinda kicked my arse last time at Spooky!

Dan 

PS- We got some cool Park tools in the Clay County tool shed...must take inventory to see what all we got! 

[Cooper]

Dan, are gonna be ready to manhandle that compactor again? Or shall we rent a steam roller?

We got about 17 different soil types and configuations...

I should make the designers aware of that and for extra credit, they tell me what type of soil they have under their t-boxes and how do we deal with that type of soil. (sandy, dry, wet, clay, loam. ect...)

Maybe a chance for Course Concrete VP Tom to help us if needed. The right treatment and underlayment will make any soil issue go away.

To answer your question sir...I'll be VP Level/Final Placement guy again, you can be VP in charge of all Stake Issues and we will leave the Mr. Tamper Machine for the young-ins...that kinda kicked my arse last time at Spooky!

Dan 

PS- We got some cool Park tools in the Clay County tool shed...must take inventory to see what all we got! 

I'm gonna say I have... brown soil beneath my designed tee pads. I guess I'll need some help in that area, but I'm sure it exists out there (Bom Tutler for example), and you seem pretty knowledgeable Mr. Dan.

[Dan Weinert]

Cooper's designs all turned in...VERY NICE WORK SIR!!

You can tell Coop walked the land...several times.

Thank you much!!!

I am very impressed with the quality and completeness of your design package!

Dan